It’s held on by 3 screws, so be sure to pop the little plastic part off to find the third screw. It’s the board on the front of the machine where the ring and power button are. Pro tip: Instead of a small plastic knife that they say to use to ping open the case, you can either buy a tool for it, make one out of an old CD/DVD spindle cover, or just rip the damn thing open with a screwdriver (after all, it’s dead right?). has a perfectly good explanation of how to do this. I’m not going to reinvent the wheel here. Basically it’s just there for a forward voltage drop WHICH IS VITAL (unless you don’t mind burning the board out and killing your USB controller). Two diodes – a couple of 1N4001 or equivalents will do.Any old USB cable you don’t mind cutting.Dead/Red Ringed Xbox 360 you don’t mind cannibalising.Well, I say modification but I really mean little more than soldering a few wires and altering a. The wireless transceiver in the Xbox can be made to work with a little modification. This is the key to getting the controller working with a PC.

Now if you’re like me, and have a spare wireless controller sitting around, it’s likely you have a dead red ringed Xbox 360 sitting in a cupboard. I was thinking that there may be some other RF transceiver that could be modified or adapted to work with it.

As I’m tight on cash right now I figured I’d have a quick look around to see if there was a way to use a wireless controller on the PC without going out and buying the official wireless transceiver. Yesterday I had a thought – I don’t like having a wire to the Xbox360 controller I use for games on my PC. Update 5: Further testing on alternative syncing method shows how non-play & charge kit compatible peripherals can be synced -without- a microcontroller. Update 4: Alternative means of syncing mentioned in the comments by George. You can find the related forum post here: Link (and see how my thrown together version of it looks and. However, I am working with another modification I found which adds LED and sync enable functions by means of a serial connection with a PIC16F628A μC. Update 2: It seems that syncing is impossible directly from the RF module and PC, but if the wireless controller you use was already synced with the RF module, and hasn’t been re-synced with another Xbox since, it will work. I also added actual photos of the wiring now, as I’ve redone it (hence the messy wires from re-soldering Etc.) Two diodes in series take the voltage down to almost exactly 3.3V, which is the required voltage for the RF board. Update: I updated the post to mention using two 1N4001 or equivalent diodes instead of just one. Please note that I barely pay attention to this site anymore and is only here for archive purposes.

360 wireless receiver